Arriving just in time for this year’s National Buffalo Wing
Contest (and screening at Market Arcade – just down the street) – Matt
Reynolds’ The Great Chicken Wing Hunt is a brief – but satisfying documentary.
With more ambition than a Food Network program, it wastes no time, running just
over an hour a film
The concept is simple: Reynolds – a Rochester-area native
born and raised in the “chicken wing belt” has move to Slovakia – where Buffalo
Wild Wings has yet to open a franchise. Reynolds introduces his friends and
neighbors to the wing, and even takes a few on his quest to search for the best
wing in his beloved “Wing Belt”. Starting in New York, the group devises a
judging system including a bucket of gross control wings from the local deli
(they decide those are a 3 – the film doesn’t mention if any of the
establishments they stopped in along the way scored lower). In 10-days they
travel 2,627 miles, sampling 284 varieties of wings with a periodic break
before hitting the birthplace of the wing, the Anchor Bar.
A project originating online – Reynolds enlists an
interesting group of wing lovers including The Mighty Thor, a competitive eater
(who looses at the National Buffalo Wing Contest to the famed Black Widdow),
Ric Kealoha, a chief from Hawaii, Al Caster, a musician from Syracuse, and a
small crew that includes Reynolds’ girlfriend Lucie. The behind the scenes
stuff works while exploring the lives of those that live in Buffalo/Rochester –
including those that have hit hard times (in one sequence we see the demolition
of a building at Kodak park – where Ron Wieszczyk another judge works). Likable
the film is a both a love letter and a bold statement on upstate and Western
New York – especially Buffalo-Rochester. This is a rare film that I think gets
it.
The trip is full of enjoyable moments including as all good
road movies should – after all this is about the journey, not the destination.
As a food critic interviewed suggests the chicken wing is a food meant to be
eaten by buddies: here mostly strangers unite to unpack the past, present and
future of the wing and to crown a progressive champion. The definition of what
makes for a good wing changes and evolves ultimate leading to a kind of bake
off to determine who is the champion – coming down to a join that makes their
own hot sauce and another restaurant who turns the formula on its head (causing
controversy, even if they all agree it’s one damn good wing).
The comradery amongst the group gives the story an informal
edge, making this material personal, approachable and likable. We learn a
little about the history including a fantastic interview with the (then) last
remaining person alive who was present at the Anchor Bar that day Theresa
Bellissimo invented the Buffalo wing in 1964. Legend has it that a box of wings
(commonly discarded) were accidently dropped off at the Anchor Bar and
Bellissimo experimented with spicy ingredients they had in the kitchen, creating
the spicy, crunchy chicken wing. The wings were so cheap they originally were a
free bar snack (like popcorn or pretzel bites) – until they became too popular
and were promoted to the main menu.
I’m glad this group of experts saved me this time, but I have to
wonder, is there another gem out there they missed. The group-prequalified restaurants
based on online suggestions. I imagine a lone ranger (for some reason I picture
Guy Fieri in his convertible) roaming around the North America looking for the
ideal wing. Then again, as the group becomes deadlocked later – that definition
is variable. In Philly you’re either a Pats or Gino’s guy/gal - - and in Buffalo
you’re either a Duffs or Anchor Bar guy/gal. But, as you’ll be shocked to discover
(and later in the film Reynolds laments) - sometimes it takes evolution to be the best.
Screening: Dipson Market Arcade (Director Matt Reynolds will
be in attendance to for the 7:30PM show on Saturday and the 1:30PM show on
Sunday).
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